surfing and brotherhood

hmm...sisterhood? made it to mission beach this morning for the first time in months. since i keep my board at a friend's house, i've been riding the waves, shredding the gnar (which i had to ask, stands for gnarley...of course it does) in ob and sunset. Then today i realized i've been missing out on our mission beach tradition. the waves were long and clean, the ocean was as vast as ever and the dolphins were out in full force with a few duos and trifectas. i was probably 15 feet from them!

anyway, was on my way to catching a really nice wave until i realized it was a steep beach break and my board took a nose dive and my neck experience a bit more than whip lash. no problem, went right back out. caught another good one until i fell off and the board decided to hit me in the eye propelling me into a series of water gulping fun. oh, i still love surfing. i still love that i had a chance to see coult and jon lee. i loved that in the water i can feel god's presence and i'm hoping/waiting for another day where i can just get up and spend a whole day basking without having to run home on empty (i need to get gas).

peace. love. waiting.